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Hidden away in plain site near Bulgaria’s southern border with Greece is one of the most amazing ancient stone sites: Perperikon. The complex was carved out of rock of the East Rhodope mountain, making it one of the most monumental megalithic structures in the world. Its mysterious moniker derives from the Greek word hyperakion, or “very large fire”. Regardless of the name, the history associated with the site is incredible. Over millennia it has been used as a temple of worship for several different gods, a city center, an acropolis, a place to consult with oracles, and the site of battles. Inhabited since at least 5000 BC, it has been occupied by the Greeks, the Thracians, the Romans, Christians, the Goths, and even the Ottoman Turks. Just about everyone has passed through this place at one time or other.  Shattered columns with a gorgeous view. If you are determined enough to make a visit (see tips below) you can literally walk in the footsteps of giants. You can walk the same paths as those who shook the ancient world to its core. Their names are still recognized today. Whereas most of us have been or will be forgotten – a sad, but all-too-true reality – you have probably heard about Alexander the Great. Yes, that Alexander the Great. In the year 334 BC, this ambitious guy visited Perperikon in order to speak to the oracle of Dionysus. It was here where he learned that he would conquer the world. That's far more impressive than the predictions found in your average fortune cookie... The steps he likely walked up during his visit are still visible today, or at least that’s what the legends say. Regardless, Alexander’s oracular prophecy happened just before his and his ragtag Macedonians’ famous invasion of Persia. You have to admit that that old oracle was pretty spot on. A bit later (i.e., around 59 B.C.E.), Gaius Octavious also sought out the oracle’s wise counsel. He was told that his son would rule the world. Who was his son, you may ask? None other than the man who would later be known as Emperor Augustus. These Dionysian oracles aren’t too shabby. In vino veritas? One of the Proper Degenerate team visited Perperikon in person and, of course, off-season. Who wants to deal with other annoying tourists? It was a crystal clear day with miles of beautiful scenery as well as spy breathtaking views of the temple ruins. There was also an opportunity to make a brief but meaningful connection with a temple puppy who apparently lives near the parking lot, sadly bereft of any consistent human companionship. Perperikon is a legitimately special place. It evokes a strange feeling of peace and solemnity that isn’t found in many other sites, with the possible exception of Delphi and some choice ruined castles. All those worries and distractions that your silly mind tends to fret about seem to melt away in the presences of all this Thracian majesty. The walk up to and from the Temple is quite beautiful too.
Tips: Perperikon is an out-of-the-way destination, but very much worth it. However, you will definitely need a car, as we are not aware of public transport to the site from the major cities of Bulgaria (e.g., Sofia; Plovdiv). This should be part of the fun, though. Add some adventure into your life, for Dionysus’s sake and enjoy the remoteness. Trust us, you don’t want this place to feel like Athens or Rome where ancient sites are mashed together with modern buildings and Pizza Huts. We at the PD team like our ruins ruinous so that we can imagine what it would be like to actually live there in the times before TV, cell phones, and AI-generated images of Taylor Swift and Greta Thunberg in nazi regalia. However, you need some determination to get there. The highways of Bulgaria are perfectly fine, and better than those that surround the US capital, but the roads closer to the site get a bit dodgy. Be careful and also be alert to local customs. On smaller roads, some Bulgarians will drive in the center, veering into their own lane only when they see oncoming traffic. Though they’re used to this approach, it may create a bit of anxiety or heart palpitations in non-Slavic drivers. You should also know that, unlike American tourist sites, there aren't millions of signs on every square foot. We like that, but as a consequence you won't be easily able to get a sense of what is what. You might hire one of the local guides or download maps to get a better sense of the site's history. Also, plan on making a day of it. You don’t want to rush this experience. Pack a lunch and try your best to take in the whole site. Also, if you see a cute stray dog there with mottled black and white fur, you may even choose to share a bit of your meal with the hungry puppy and maybe give him a cup of cold water, too. Tell him that he is missed.  More amazing ruinous ruins
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Wine-based cocktails seem to be very popular right now. You could throw a rock in any hipster-type bar across the US and hit at least one New York Sour. We thought we’d toss our hat in the ring with our wine-based version of the Vampire’s Kiss. The Vampire’s kiss varies a bit across recipes, but it is a vibrant red cocktail made of cranberry juice, raspberry liqueur, and vodka. We call our version Bathory’s Kiss. So, who is Báthory and what is this drink? Erzsébet (Elizabeth) Báthory(1560 C.E. – 1614 C.E.) was a Hungarian aristocrat and, more importantly, a fascinating person. She is very much a study in contrasts. She was extremely bright and fluent in many languages whilst most of the European world was illiterate. She was also a caring mother and a devout protestant. However, she may also have been the most prolific serial killer of all time with a murder toll somewhere between 50 and 650 young female victims. Erzsébet is probably most well-known for rumors of her supposedly bathing in the blood of her virgin victims to maintain her youth. However, as these reports never came up in trial testimony of the time and only in books from the 1700s, we can safely rule out the veracity of this vampiric tidbit.  A bottle of Slovakian wine from the vineyards of Čachtice castle. Though only one of her many properties, this is where she eventually died. The cellars used to age this wine used to be under her manor house. If the stories are real, she dispatched these young women in gruesome, torturous ways. For example, she was said to have bitten them, drawing blood, and also to have made them strip in the winter while she poured cold water over them, allowing them to slowly succumb to the elements. Some were even more sadistically creative – she was reputed to have lit oil-soaked pieces of paper on fire that were cunningly placed between the poor girls’ toes. However, if the stories are not real, she was the victim of an elaborate witch hunt from up on high (i.e., both the King and Palatine of Hungary were "involved"). In this version, she was arrested because she was extremely wealthy and had many castles and tracts of arable land. The land also had very good vineyards famous in her own time and still active today. Her wines graced the tables of kings. Even worse for Erzsébet, this particular King was in financial debt to her. Thus, getting her out of the way could be a convenient way of, shall we say, raising his Renaissance-era credit score. It wouldn’t hurt to have more good wine to sell, too.  The only roughly contemporary image of Erzsébet Báthory (wikicommons) So, what is the truth? Did a fantastically rich and famous countess murder and brutalize hundreds of girls OR was fake news alive and well in 1610? If you want to get a modern idea of how famous she was, just imagine a combination of Oprah Winfrey and Kate Middleton. Isn’t it extremely strange that we don’t really know for sure? Shouldn’t the historians of the time have tackled this question and left irrefutable proof of her crimes for posterity, or is this all part of a cover-up? Well, lacking firm answers, we can at least enjoy a nice drink as we ponder this historical mystery. If you can find some wine produced at one of Erzsébet's former properties (e.g., Čachtice castle in modern-day Slovakia), well, then all the better.  A Bathory's Kiss to enjoy on a nice spring day while pondering Renaissance-era conspiracies or conspiracy theories. To make our version of a Vampire’s kiss (two cocktails):
-6 oz of a good red wine. We prefer a bold and fruity one (preferably from Čachtice, Slovakia) -2 oz cherry vodka* -2 oz Grand Marnier or triple sec Put all ingredients in a shaker and stir with a bartender’s spoon for 60 rotations with plenty of ice. Strain into a couple of fancy glasses and garnish with a cherry Flavor Notes: This is a quick and flavorful (relatively) low horsepower cocktail that still manages to feel a bit sexy. |
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