In the Footsteps of Alexander the Great? Visiting Ancient Perperikon

Hidden away in plain site near Bulgaria’s southern border with Greece is one of the most amazing ancient stone sites: Perperikon. The complex was  carved out of rock of the East Rhodope mountain, making it one of the most monumental megalithic structures in the world.  

Its mysterious moniker derives from the Greek word hyperakion, or “very large fire”. Regardless of the name, the history associated with the site is incredible. Over millennia it has been used as a temple of worship for several different gods, a city center, an acropolis, a place to consult with oracles, and the site of battles. Inhabited since at least 5000 BC, it has been occupied by the Greeks, the Thracians, the Romans, Christians, the Goths, and even the Ottoman Turks. Just about everyone has passed through this place at one time or other.

Shattered columns with a gorgeous view.

If you are determined enough to make a visit (see tips below) you can literally walk in the footsteps of giants. You can walk the same paths as those who shook the ancient world to its core. Their names are still recognized today. Whereas most of us have been or will be forgotten – a sad, but all-too-true reality – you have probably heard about Alexander the Great. Yes, that Alexander the Great. In the year 334 BC, this ambitious guy visited Perperikon in order to speak to the oracle of Dionysus. It was here where he learned that he would conquer the world. That's far more impressive than the predictions found in your average fortune cookie... The steps he likely walked up during his visit are still visible today, or at least that’s what the legends say. Regardless, Alexander’s oracular prophecy happened just before his and his ragtag Macedonians’ famous invasion of Persia. You have to admit that that old oracle was pretty spot on.  A bit later (i.e., around 59 B.C.E.), Gaius Octavious also sought out the oracle’s wise counsel. He was told that his son would rule the world. Who was his son, you may ask?  None other than the man who would later be known as Emperor Augustus. These Dionysian oracles aren’t too shabby.  In vino veritas? 

One of the Proper Degenerate team visited Perperikon in person and, of course, off-season. Who wants to deal with other annoying tourists? It was a crystal clear day with miles of beautiful scenery as well as spy breathtaking views of the temple ruins. There was also an opportunity to make a brief but meaningful connection with a temple puppy who apparently lives near the parking lot, sadly bereft of any consistent human companionship.  

Perperikon is a legitimately special place. It evokes a strange feeling of peace and solemnity that isn’t found in many other sites, with the possible exception of Delphi and some choice ruined castles. All those worries and distractions that your silly mind tends to fret about seem to melt away in the presences of all this Thracian majesty.  The walk up to and from the Temple is quite beautiful too. 

Are these the steps of Alexander... ?

Or are these the steps of Alexander?

Tips: 
Perperikon is an out-of-the-way destination, but very much worth it. However, you will definitely need a car, as we are not aware of public transport to the site from the major cities of Bulgaria (e.g., Sofia; Plovdiv). This should be part of the fun, though. Add some adventure into your life, for Dionysus’s sake and enjoy the remoteness. Trust us, you don’t want this place to feel like Athens or Rome where ancient sites are mashed together with modern buildings and Pizza Huts. We at the PD team like our ruins ruinous so that we can imagine what it would be like to actually live there in the times before TV, cell phones, and AI-generated images of Taylor Swift and Greta Thunberg in nazi regalia.  
 
However, you need some determination to get there. The highways of Bulgaria are perfectly fine, and better than those that surround the US capital, but the roads closer to the site get a bit dodgy. Be careful and also be alert to local customs. On smaller roads, some Bulgarians will drive in the center, veering into their own lane only when they see oncoming traffic. Though they’re used to this approach, it may create a bit of anxiety or heart palpitations in non-Slavic drivers.  

You should also know that, unlike American tourist sites, there aren't millions of signs on every square foot. We like that, but as a consequence you won't be easily able to get a sense of what is what. You might hire one of the local guides or download maps to get a better sense of the site's history.​

Also, plan on making a day of it. You don’t want to rush this experience. Pack a lunch and try your best to take in the whole site. Also, if you see a cute stray dog there with mottled black and white fur, you may even choose to share a bit of your meal with the hungry puppy and maybe give him a cup of cold water, too. Tell him that he is missed. 

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